'Chokes for all folks

Though you might not guess it from the number of chocolate-related posts I've written lately, nothing gets me excited quite like a new, unusual vegetable. Oh, sure, there's something comforting in the familiarity of broccoli or carrots, but every now and then I want to explore something a little more mysterious and exotic.  What with spring, and therefore, new fresh produce, just around the corner, it seems like time to focus on one of spring's best bounties: artichokes.

I cooked my first artichokes last spring.  I had had marinated artichoke hearts before, but cooking the buds themselves seemed rather intimidating.  As is fitting for a thistle, the bracts are tipped in thorns, just waiting to get a chance to poke your unsuspecting fingers. Once you get past the exterior defenses, the edible heart hides beneath the fuzzy, poisonous choke. And if that weren't enough, once cut and exposed to air, the artichoke is even worse than potatoes and apples with quickly turning brown – a bath of acidulated water is a must. It's the kind of vegetable that makes me wonder why someone picked it up and thought, “I know, I'll have this for dinner!”

But once you get past the thorns, and you figure out which parts are edible, and you've made sure to soak the buds in a nice bowl of lemon water, artichokes are as simple as half an hour steaming and warming up a good dipping sauce or two.  Once steamed, the 'chokes taste like new greenery and the promise of warmer weather to come.  They may be a tad complicated to prepare, but they're well worth the effort.

While we're on the topic of unusual vegetables, let's not forget about the long-lost, New World cousin to the artichoke, the Jerusalem artichoke, which actually is in no way related to the globe artichoke except for their shared name. While the globe artichoke is the immature flower bud of a variety of thistle, the Jerusalem artichoke (also sometimes called a sunchoke) is a tuber in the sunflower family.  The tubers look something like fat ginger roots.   Now there is an unusual vegetable.

I don't think I had ever even heard of the Jerusalem artichoke until a couple of weeks ago when I began reading Waverly Root's Eating in America. The Jerusalem artichoke was prominent across North America when Europeans arrived and was a staple food for the early settlers, at least until potatoes made their way up from South America and took over as the tuber of choice. (Funny fact – the colonists didn't start eating potatoes until they'd caught on in Europe and then been shipped back across the Atlantic.) So if they are completely unrelated biologically, and originate on opposite sides of the world, why do they share a name? Supposedly, Jerusalem artichokes taste like globe artichokes – though I didn't notice any similarity.  As for the Jerusalem label, theories abound.

After having read about this formerly prominent North American vegetable that I had never heard of, I was thrilled to discover a beautiful little display of Jerusalem artichokes sitting and waiting just for me at the farmer's market last Saturday.  I was particularly enamored of their ridiculously knobby shape, and I knew I had to buy a box.  I brought them home without having any idea how, exactly, one was supposed to eat them; but then, it couldn't be any trickier than eating regular artichokes, could it?

A brief internet hunt brought me some answers.  In many ways, Jerusalem artichokes can be used like potatoes: you can boil and mash 'em, or toss them in soups, or cook 'em in gratins.  But unlike potatoes, they're also good for raw consumption – they're super crisp like radish, but with none of a radish's peppery kick: they have a mild, barely sweet flavor.  Having never cooked with them before, I wanted a simple preparation that would bring out the flavor of the 'chokes without too much muddling.  I went with a simple saute, and the results were pretty excellent, if I do say so myself.  The 'chokes have a delicate sweet flavor with a mild nuttiness that would pair well with roasted meats or cooked winter greens or, really, just about anything.

Though we're just beginning regular artichoke season, Jerusalem artichokes are on their way out.  The tubers first appear in the autumn, and are best after a hard frost.  Like many root vegetables, they keep well for the winter.  With winter's end finally getting close, it's time to take advantage of the remaining Jerusalem artichoke harvest before the regular artichokes – and the next unusual vegetable to capture my attention – take over.

Pan Fried Jerusalem Artichokes

Jerusalem artichokes do not need to be peeled, which is great because with such a knobby surface, I can imagine that peeling would be a huge pain.  The skin helps keep the 'chokes a little firmer and provides good texture.  Do make sure you scrub them well, though: those nooks and crannies are great for storing dirt. 

Though the flavor Jerusalem artichokes is unoffensive, the way the rest of your body reacts to them may be less appealing – you may not want to prepare them for a first date.  I'm just sayin'.

1 pound Jerusalem artichokes, washed well, patted dry, and cut into 1/4-inch width slices
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

Heat the butter and oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.  When the butter begins to foam, add the sliced 'chokes and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Saute for 20 minutes or so, until the chokes are pleasantly browned and you're satisfied with how soft they have become, turning frequently.  Serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a side dish