When I was growing up, Saturday mornings meant trips to the farmer's market (weather permitting) and library (always). I suppose it's no surprise, then, that two of my greatest interests now are local seasonal cuisine and reading. I always have a pile of books sitting in my bedroom, waiting to be read. Often, I'm working my way through three or four of them at the same time. Just now, for example, next to my bed I have bookmarks in The Meaning of Tingo, How to Pick a Peach, and a collection of Robert Frost poems. There's also a copy of Richard Olney's Simple French Food there on standby for any necessary late-night perusal. In other words, I have a really active social life.
This week I've worked my way through a few other books as well, what with having 12 hours of train rides to fill, and then, once I got back home, spending an inordinate amount of time recumbent while resting with a cold. I've spent more time thinking about breathing than cooking this week, but now that I'm starting to feel better, it seems criminal to have almost gotten through a cold without slurping up a heart-warming bowl of every mom's favorite panacea, chicken noodle soup.
But back to the books - I can't think about chicken soup without thinking of Maurice Sendak's classic, Chicken Soup with Rice. I'm not sure I totally agree that "All seasons of the year are nice/ For eating chicken soup with rice" (let's go with gazpacho in summer instead, please), but is there anything more perfect than chicken soup in winter? And with last week's hint of spring once again hidden under a fresh blanket of snow, I'll seize the opportunity - especially if it means I might get some cake, too.
Chicken soup with rice (and kale)
I've been meaning to make chicken stock all winter, but somehow I never got around to it. Ah well. Poaching the chicken lends some of its flavor to the soup, but it also takes away from the flavor of the meat itself, which is why I take it out as soon as it's cooked through. The kale adds both a new texture and a vivid green color, but it can easily be left out per your taste.
1 3-4 pound chicken, preferably free range
water
salt
tellicherry peppercorns
cloves
3 bay leaves
1 tablespoon herbes de Provence (or a bouquet garni, whatever herbs you have on hand)
3 leeks
4 carrots
5 stalks of celery
3 cloves garlic, minced
A good bunch of kale (I would guess I had six cups or so when all chopped)
1 cup leftover cooked rice
Rinse the chicken, then place it in a large soup pot, breast side down. Add enough water to cover the chicken (I used about four quarts), and then about four teaspoons salt, a dozen whole peppercorns and just as many whole cloves, the bay leaves, and any herbs you're using. Cover the pan and set over high heat to bring up to a boil.
While waiting for the water to come to a boil, prepare the leeks, celery, and carrots. Start with the leeks: cut off the stiff green tops, then wash the tops thoroughly and toss them in with the chicken to lend their flavor to the stock. Next, return to the whites of the leeks: cut them in quarters lengthwise, then in 1/4" strips, making sure to wash them thoroughly. Wash the celery and carrots and dice into thin slices, then set aside.
When the stock comes to a boil, lower the heat to medium and let simmer for 20 minutes, then flip the chicken onto its back and continue to let simmer until cooked through. Remove the chicken from the pot and let it cool. Discard the leek tops and any fresh herb stalks. If you aim to impress guests, this would be a good time to strain the stock and remove the peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaves. But if you're uninterested in dirtying a strainer and another pot or bowl, this step can be skipped - just be sure to warn eaters to look out for any tough aromatics.
Let the stock simmer for an hour or so uncovered, until the flavor goes from light and fresh to rich and toothsome, by which time the liquid has reduced by about a third. During this time, wash and prepare the kale, removing tough stems and chopping the leaves into bite-size strips.
When the chicken has cooled, shred it into bite-size pieces and set aside.
Once the stock has reduced, use a spoon to skim off any fat and scum from the top of the broth, then toss in the celery, carrots, and leeks with the garlic and let simmer for another 30 minutes or so, stirring occasionally. Now we're in the home stretch! Toss in the kale, appreciate the vivid color it takes on as soon as it heats through, and let simmer another ten minutes. Throw in the rice and the shredded chicken, and let simmer until all heated through, just another minute or two.
Serve immediately with good crusty bread.
Makes lots, and keeps well in the fridge for a few days of soul-warming leftovers.
In February it will be
My snowman's anniversary
With cake for him, and soup for me!
Happy once, happy twice,
Happy chicken soup with rice!
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